In my 1200 there are headshell technics: a break with the contacts and makes me feel just a channel

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Hello everyone, I was intending to use the head Shure M-44 7, already proven on Technics headshell and I must say that I find too good ....... but in this case I have the strength to mount on the shell of the Stanton H4SV2 who already possess (the one in the picture), and I wanted to know before you buy the head, if c 'chance ammo to mount them together ... I would not spend 50 euro for the Shure and then failing to mount .. thanks ammo to all ....... !!!
The shell H4S of Stanton meets all the standard requirements for the assembly of heads and, from this point of view, you will have no problem to mount the Shure M44-7. Headhell are well made, I use a pair too, and will not give you problems (I use them with heads of a certain quality and they are fine). Hello. Marco.
The shell H4S of Stanton meets all the standard requirements for the assembly of heads and, from this point of view, you will have no problem to mount the Shure M44-7. Headhell are well made, I use a pair too, and will not give you problems (I use them with heads of a certain quality and they are fine). Hello. Marco. hello Toba .... at the end I bought the Shure in question to mount them on ....... stanton headshell assembly was simple and the 2 products are completely compatible with each other .......... ammo .. the only flaw of these shells of Stanton, mounting ammo them on plates Technics 1210 I created a little play with the arm of the turntable, as if they were slightly thinner bayonet arm ........ during the mix no problems but there is much touching this "game" ......... do you think normal ???
c 'the rubber ring into the headshell? I will leave the shell as well as I was sold ...... I have not even changed the 4 wires. without rubber ring've got tried, however, because the bracket should screwed most of the head, but the game makes it always .............. however, this "experiment" I'm doing it About 1210 a friend ammo of mine, I own 1200, of which I mount to a flat shell Technics and Shure M-447 and the game does not do it for nothing, while the other dish I mount a ortofon concorde which is also the game , but being the lightest notice much less!
In my 1200 there are headshell technics: a break with the contacts and makes me feel just a channel, I tried to remove the rubber ring but not served and put it back. I think that you should tighten the headshell ammo to the arm with all his might, in the long run it will ruin the attack of the arm.
In my 1200 there are headshell technics: a break with the contacts and makes me feel just a channel, I tried to remove the rubber ring but not served and put it back. I think that you should tighten the headshell to the arm with all his might, in the long run it will ruin the attack of the arm. absolutely no ........ bayonet attacks such as the Technics arm are designed to be tight up to the stop, ie when the ride ends of the shell do not tighten more of everything else breaks, and then are trouble! ! however you could try spraying some magic spray (like WD-40) where there are contacts of the arm with the headshell, I also had a problem like that and at the end was one of the "legs" of the contact arm slightly oxidized!
The game that is created on the attack bayonet may be due to the gradual loosening of 2 small small screws placed ammo in proximity to the bayonet ammo catch on the side arm (facing downward). The cause often lies in the tendency to over-tighten the bayonet fixing. To tighten them you need to equip themselves with a short screwdriver or remove the arm. Of course I am referring to Technics 1200s, but I think it is so also for the arms of other dishes. As I have already written, quietly use the Stanton headshell on HS4 1200 without problems and without loose. Hello. Marco.
In my 1200 there are headshell technics: a break with the contacts and makes me feel just a channel, I tried to remove the rubber ring but not served and put it back. I think that you should tighten the headshell to the arm with all his might, in the long run it will ruin the attack of the arm. Hello, try to look for contacts in the first place if the contacts are tight head shell (the original cables have the sockets cylindrical two sizes, the largest side of the head, pi small side arm), and if so whether c 'continuity from pin to RCA arm, just these pins can cause problems at times and get stuck into the arm (are preloaded by a small springs) often happens q